Voyages of rediscovery

Once marred by violence, four beautiful countries want you back.
April 27, 2005: 2:05 PM EDT
By Donna Rosato, MONEY Magazine

NEW YORK (MONEY Magazine) - Libya. Rwanda. Croatia. Nicaragua. We expect to see these names on the evening news, not travel brochures.

A war or another well-publicized horror can keep tourists away for generations, but these countries have quietly recovered from past troubles with their beauty intact and their history well preserved. Tourists have yet to return in force, so crowds are down and prices are low.

Travelers who want the familiarity of, say, St. Thomas or the guidebook-friendly ease of Paris won't consider these to be dream destinations -- you trade the comforts of a well-established tourism network for real adventure.

But each offers an experience that you can't find anywhere else. So don't cross these countries off your list because of what you think you'll find there. You could miss not only a good deal but a vacation unlike any you, or anyone you know, has ever taken.

NICARAGUA

You say Nicaragua, I think Sandinistas.
Nicaragua's civil war ended 15 years ago. The infrastructure has been rebuilt, and several top resorts have opened. The country remains one of the poorest in the world, but it has held three peaceful presidential elections since 1990.

I hear it's like Costa Rica 20 years ago. Is that good?
Yes. Nicaragua shares Costa Rica's natural beauty, from volcanoes to cloud forests, but it's less crowded than its trendy neighbor. Just work with a veteran tour operator such as Nicaragua Adventures (nica-adventures.com) so you find the spots with the best amenities.

What can I do there?
Sit on the edge of the crater, hike a rain forest, mountain bike down a volcano, kayak across Lake Nicaragua, and surf some of the best waves in Central America with no photo-snapping tourists to elbow aside. For a more laid-back experience, enjoy a breakfast of rice and beans and strong local coffee, hit the beach all day, and enjoy a steak dinner at sunset.

The way to go
Last October the luxury ecolodge Lapa Rios in Costa Rica opened Morgan's Rock Hacienda in Nicaragua. There are just 15 bungalows on the property, which uses solar power and sits amid a vast nature preserve. A four-night package including multicourse meals, local drinks, a nature walk and volcano tour is $800 per person May through October. Most hotels and restaurants in the capital accept credit cards, but away from the city it’s harder to find places that take plastic. It ain’t St. Thomas, but then that’s the idea.

Note: All prices are per person, based on double occupancy.

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